Tuesday, January 3, 2006

Drinking Tea and more

I recently returned from a family vacation (Christmas with my parents and my brother's family).

I had prepared myself in advance for a total lack of espresso. I've made the mistake in the past of trying to seek out espresso in locations like this and it has always led to a ton of frustration for me. I took with me three pounds of lovely coffee, made sure my father had two different sizes of Press Pot, etc. And, as a fallback, I took a bunch of tea with me.

Now... a little back story.

My mother is a tea fanatic and I grew up drinking more tea than coffee. My father is the coffee person, but tends to drink a lot of drip coffee. In addition, I've spent a lot of time hanging out with various Brits and developed a tea habit as a result. Even now that I drink espresso most of the time, I still enjoy tea in the afternoon (especially with a stem ginger shortbread).

In any event, I arrived at the family homestead prepared.

In a week there I discovered three things - one forgotten, one expected and one unknown.

First - I re-discovered the flavour complexity of tea. My mother has a relatively large collection of very nice and often rare teas in house at all times. By not just drinking tea for social or pharmaceutical purposes (sound familiar?) but rather tasting and evaluating a range of teas I started to really develop an appreciation for the flavours of tea. In fact - I would say that I developed just enough understanding to realize how big the unknown world of tea really is for me. Most coffee people have a knee-jerk disdain for tea and tea drinkers. Many are, in fact, proud of this. I find this really silly now that I've thought more on the topic. I think we all owe it to ourselves to give tea a chance.

Second - while I knew I would get no good espresso, this did not stop me from giving local indy shops a chance. I feel like I always have to do this. Sadly, what I found in general was that the state of espresso in the US as a whole has not improved in the last few years. Filthy battered portafilters left sitting on the counter. Stale ground Costco quality coffee sitting in dosers. 1/4 inch thick baked on milk on wands. Foul, burnt, acrid gushers of so-called espresso. The owners and staff of these so-called espresso bars should be ashamed of themselves.

Third - on the other hand... I spent part of a day in the Italian section of Providence Rhode Island. While there I stopped into a very busy deli and store. They had a little espresso bar area that was rocking busy. In the case they had some lovely looking cannoli, so I figured we'd stop and get a little something-something. Almost out of habit or perhaps cultural programming I ordered an espresso as well. Was it great? No. Was it good? In a different sense. Sitting there, stirring sugar into my espresso, talking with the barista (in the true Italian sense of the word) and eating my cannoli I came to the realization that the espresso almost wasn't supposed to be great in the sense we're used to. I wasn't interested in evaluating the accuracy of the brew temp or the persistence of the crema. It was just one component of the total experience - which included everything from the banter to the music to the cannoli (which, by the way, was truly god-like) to the families dropping by for an appertif, some gossip and perhaps a little gelato. Really enjoyable - in a very different way.

Oh... Happy New Year.

5 comments:

  1. > I think we all owe it to ourselves to
    > give tea a chance.

    It's a strange coincidence, Chris: for the second time today, I'm quoting the Beatles in a reply to you:

    "All we are saying, is give teas a chance."

    Sorry. :-)

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  2. Great post Chris. Im with you on this one, but am in a deep dark hole of tea illiteracy.
    Jen and I were on the Haight on New Years Day and she was looking in Tattoo and Piercing shop at some earrings or something. I struck up a conversation with the Tattooed fellow behind the counter, while the other guy behind the counter helped another custie. Jen had a simple question to ask--and because the other guy was busy, she asked the fellow I was chatting with. His response was..."I'm a Tattoo artist and thats my only focus, you gotta ask the other guy." Jen laughed, turned to me and said. "Its like you and Tea."

    The Tattooed fellow should have been able to answer the question. I should know a little more about tea.

    Thanks for the reminder, but where do I start?

    Keith

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  3. I've been reading The Empire of Tea for some historical background and The Tea Companion: A Connoisseur's Guide for information on tasting teas and types of tea. I've also been "drinking my way through" teas from various sources including Tealuxe and some of the British classics like Taylor's.

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  4. we all like to pursue our own areas, don't we? easy to get so dialed in that we forget to breathe in the rest of the world, so to speak.

    we forget tea. we forget how good a carefully brewed cup of drip coffee can be every once in a while. we forget that for way most of the world, coffee is more a social instrument and less a obsession for perfection in every minute detail.

    thanks for the reminder.

    now, back to the cupping lab! (just kidding)

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