What a nice weekend I had.
Each year, as part of our partnership, the Yucul Organic Cooperative from San Ramon, Nicaragua sends me a big package of coffee samples. I get one sample per farmer, which represents the lot of coffee they have tendered to the mill in Matagalpa. In total, I received 35 samples, each with a producer's name on it. I've been doing this since 2002, and over time, I've gotten to know this micro-region really well, which comprises the communities of Yucul, La Corona, and Yasika Sur.
San Ramon sits in the mountains above the city of Matagalpa, which lends its name to one of the most famous coffee regions in Nicaragua. The coffees here are grown on tiny farms, usually only a few hectares in size, and are cultivated, picked, pulped, fermented, washed, and partially dried by the farmers themselves. As such, the coffee is uniquely handcrafted by a large number of individual farmers, and most lots represent a large number of farms' produce.
So, in order to create great coffees, I have to get down to the farm level to evaluate the coffes, and blend the best ones together thoughtfully to make our "Cafe San Ramon" lot for the year. Quite a task.
Let me tell you, people, this was my favorite year so far. The overall quality of the farmers' coffees was MUCH better this year than in previous years. This is the first year that I was able to rate every single micro-lot at over 80 points. In addition, there were a few lots which absolutely stunned me. They may be the best Nicaraguan coffees I have yet tasted. To wit:
Manuel Torres' coffee was delectable, with juicy acidity and a beautiful strawberry and apricot flavor. Beautiful and mouthwatering. 93
Asuncion Arauz's coffee was brisk, with aromas of grapefruit, bergamot and jasmine, and a light, elegant body. 92
Finca Esperanza Verde's coffee was almost Kenyan in its rich savory flavor and ripe berrylike fruit. Sweet, perfectly clean, it makes my mouth water just thinking about it. 94.
I'm so lucky to be able to conduct this kind of "mini Cup of Excellence" in a single micro-region, which I know can create great coffees. It's such a thrill when you discover the great ones, and you can send the farmer the message that he or she has created something special.
It's exhausting, though, to thoughtfully cup 35 coffees in a weekend. You wind up revisiting certain coffees to make sure you got it right, and there is a lot of notetaking and recordkeeping.
And lots of dishes.
so peter, what do you think accounts for the much better crop this year than in previous years? and (without giving away your trade secrets) what kinds of flavor characteristics were you most interested in blending for your cafe san ramon? did some surprising flavors cause you to rethink the blend's "direction" versus previous years?
ReplyDeleteno secrets here, man....
ReplyDeleteI think that a few things might account for the quality increase.
1. Farmers in this region have recently (at our suggestion) begun "floating" the coffee in water before pulping. Using this technique, damaged or infected beans will float and can be skimmed out of the water before pulping.
2. We've been pushing farmers to pick riper and riper cherry. There is fear of overripeness in this region, but every year, they feel a little more willing to push it. Finca Esperanza Verde, in particular, picked very ripe this year and it shows in the cup.
3. This year was a VERY early year, crop-wise. I don't know if this had any impact on the quality, but it is an unusual year on that score.
My mission is to optimize the flavors available from the coffees of this year. I haven't decided how to make the lot yet, we'll see, certainly the goal is to maximize the "apricot" characteristic, as it is so unique to Nicaragua.
This is a challenge, though, becuase the farmers' lots are so small- from 1 to 10 bags normally. It's a big puzzle, that I'll be working on this week.
pg
Peter, did your Nicaraguan monkey call come in handy during the cupping?
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