How do they do that?

I recently mail-ordered a few pounds of Ecco Reserve Espresso (whole bean, not pre-ground :-)

As you probably know, the beans are roasted to a light brown color, with nary a trace of oil showing. It's a little precarious to keep 'em so light, skirting the edge of acidic green disaster.

But no, at 200F these shots are well balanced, with heavy body, apricot-tangerine overtones and perhaps a hint of roasted hazelnuts. This is very enjoyable espresso.

How do they do that?